Bad Breeders: Red Flag Warnings

I'd rather people adopt any breed dog or wolfdog, but being realistic I know people will buy puppies anyway, so I'd rather see bad breeders and con artists sink like stones in a quarry pond.

To be fair, legitimate breeders may do some of the things I mention here, but I’m setting up this list of warning signs that can tell you something may be fishy. So, always trust your gut.

What can possibly be wrong?

They run a puppy mill. The pups could be sick. The pups could be stolen. They won’t deliver/ship the pups after you pay. They may bait you with a picture and deliver a completely different animal. And most certainly, wolfdog breeders can and very often sell you a $3,000 wolfy looking mixed breed dog of northern heritage, aka a mutt.

So how can you be sure?

There’s no way to be sure if you buy anything online or sight unseen.

RED FLAGS

They Don’t Ask Questions

Someone who cares about the animals they breed will want to screen the people they sell to. If you’ve done your homework on a particular breed, you ‘ll know what kinds of questions they should be asking. If you’re not sure, you need to do more homework.

They Won’t Allow Pre-Purchase Visits

Sometimes breeders don’t want someone in their home for various reasons, but it should raise a flag if you are not allowed to meet a pup before you purchase. A good breeder will want to see how you interact with a pup before they allow you to take it, and will arrange a place to meet you. Personally, I would want to see the home and one of the parents first. Note: Anyone can copy and print pictures off of the internet, and misrepresent those animals as the parents.

They Make Excuses

A bad breeder is secretive because they know what they’re doing is morally or legally wrong. They will make all kinds of excuses to keep you away from the pups and or them before a purchase. “I don’t let people see the pups because they haven’t had shots.” “I can’t get around much, so you’ll just have to take my word.” But... they’ll personally pack the pup in a crate and send it off across the country on a plane. As if there are no germs on planes.

They Rush You

They’re in a rush to find a buyer, so if it’s not you, you’re wasting their time... and time is money. They will tell you there are five other people who want this pup sight unseen, and ask, "So, do you want it or not?”

They Make Guarantees

Bad breeders need to make a sale. They will promise the impossible. “All my pups will have great temperaments, make great house dogs, and are great with kids... I bred them like that.”

They Make More Excuses

If a bad breeder does meet you with a sickly puppy, she will make claims that the pup is underweight because he was stressed on the ride, or all puppies have eye drainage, or bald patches. These are professional crooks who will count on your sympathy to take that pup with you no matter what.

They Must Have Full Payment Immediately

Yes, some breeders ask for deposits to hold pups and some will not breed unless they have a deposit on an approximate litter. But if they are asking for full payment immediately by PayPal, sight unseen, without even asking your address, then you may get scammed.

Spotting Bad Breeders Outright

Good breeders care about the animals they brought into this world. They want to know you, your lifestyle, and that you’d make a good match.

Puppy mill breeders and scammers only care about making money off of your ignorance or sympathy for the pup. They don’t want to know anything about you, and they don’t want you to know anything about their bad practices.

Con artists and bad breeders come in all sizes and shapes, and they even use front people to gain your trust, like sweet little old ladies, or smart looking women with twenty years of experience breeding show dogs. If you don’t feel right, follow your instincts, don’t buy that puppy, you’re just encouraging them to do it again and again.

For more see Megan Lindsay’s article “Why you should not buy from a puppy mill” http://wolfermagic.blogspot.com/2013/08/responsible-ownership-why-you-should.html

This link is for a wolfdog specific article about bad wolfdog breeders: http://texx-wolf-tails.webs.com/wolfdogbreeders.htm

Personally, I feel there are plenty of adoptable pups and adult dogs out there to choose from. The pups may not still have that milk fed puppy smell and the adult dogs may need a review of manners, but it’s a misconception that dogs in rescue or shelters are broken. They are usually there because the owner was broken and never considered a dog to be a lifetime commitment.

And where do these broken people get dogs… puppy mills and bad breeders.

Think about adoption first.

Dog and Wolf-Dog Socialization: Introducing A leash

This is a companion article for the "Introducing The Leash" videos.

Bringing timid, feral and fearful dogs and wolf-dogs out on a leash can be a challenge, but it's an extremely important task in an animal's socialization process.

I've seen many animals suddenly come to life and show me a whole new side to their personality.

Dogs that were too scared to move about in their pen have pulled me over to smell something interesting. There have also been dogs who don't leave the safety of their pen willingly at first,but after a couple walks strut confidently with their tails high.

Walks are a game changer for these animals, so it's worth the effort to get them out and about as soon as possible.

So, you've spent weeks getting them to trust you, next...

Leash Introduction

Carry the leash in with you during your socialization visits. Let feral animals get used to seeing this new object, and show dogs who've had negative associations with the leash that its not a threat. Hold the leash in your petting hand or let them brush against it in passing, always keeping note of their reaction.

If they shy away, take that as a sign to back off just a little but don't stop. If they have no problem, keep going.

Leashing Introduction

Make a loop and get it over their head. At first don't tighten the loop; it may spook them. Another good advanced tip is to offer treats when they stick their heads through the loop. Again, don't tighten just yet.

Leashed Introduction

Once they are comfortable with the leash over and around their head. Distract with treats and close the loop a little but not tight. Use treats to lure-lead the animal around their pen, even if small in a shelter on a loose lead. When comfortable lure-leading, let them move about on their own as you follow.

Some animals may take to it right away and don't mind the feel of the leash tightening, others may need a little more time. If they don't mind, they are ready to go.

HOWEVER, ready or not... if they have made attempts to bite the leash, you will want to use a properly fitted choke chain collar and leash. Wolfdogs are especially good at biting through leashes in one bite and you don't want to risk them getting away from you.

I also do not recommend using a regular collar with a choke chain collar because the collar can interfere with the tightening of the choke and both can slip over their head in a struggle. Plus, since I use every safety precaution possible, I prefer to add a harness with a separate leash for back up since timid guys are a flight risk.

Still, a properly fitted choke chain collar should do fine, but it not for corrections, it's to prevent biting through the collar and leash.

How To Properly Fit A Choke Chain Collar?

Using a soft tape measure, measure the widest part of the skull around the ears. Add 2-3 inches to the measurement to allow the least amount of slack in the choke collar. Large dogs will need a chain thickness of 4 mms for strength.

Tips For Leash Weary Animals

If the dog is moving slowly with uncertainty, you will want to continue to let them lead and use your praise with treats until they are comfortable.

Use a confident dog to take the lead. Sometimes they will follow.

Read their cues and respect them. Most animals prefer you and all walkers take the lead, so they can keep an eye on you. Others prefer to step ahead, but will stop and panic if they turn and see you coming.
In case of the later, use the calming signal of avoidance, turn and look away until they've calmed down.

Socializing very shy animals takes time. We have earned the trust of the animals in these videos. The videos only shows the potential of shy animals, but each person who handles a shy and timid animal will have to develop a relationship of trust on their own.

When you decide to adopt a shy animal, your first goal is to build your relationship, then introduce the leash. Even though we've shown the animal's potential. The animal is starting over with you. Be patient.

A positive socialization process can take week, months, or even years. For more on socialization videos see my channel  at Sangay Glass YouTube

Dog And Wolf-Dog Training: Housebreaking Problems

This is a photo of Mayhem (photo credit: Alyssa Costa. I'm sure Mayhem never ever goes potty inside... lol.

So what can you do about regularly UNscheduled potty times?

First, if your dog was house-trained and is suddenly doing his business inside, he may have a health issue that needs further investigation.

Also, very timid animals who have experienced a move or change may not feel comfortable in their new home or doing business in front of a new person. It's not uncommon for them to poop when no one's looking inside for awhile. Be patient.

But most of all be consistent, even if it means getting your @$$ out of bed at the sound of pattering in the wee hours.

Crates are useful, but they are only a tool in the process. Animals need to know their potty needs will be met at regular intervals.

In the beginning, the intervals need to be short (every two hours) and your eyes and ears need to be sharp to prevent accidents. As time goes by, the intervals can be increased.

Prime Times For Early Potty Training Outings Other Than Scheduled Times

- After Naps
- After Eating or Drinking
- The Second Zommies End
- Three Minutes After Play Begins

Visual and Auditory Signs Of Impending Doom

- Sniffing
- Circling
- Wandering Away From The Action
- Whining
- Barking
- Slow Pattering Of Paws or Collar Jingle In the Next Room

Additional Tips

- Clean accidents with solution of Lysol and water
- Or spray spots with Lysol (it eliminates the odor)
- Designate a potty area and bring on leash, not just let out
- Enlist the help of a potty-trained dog to show him the way
- Bring poop outside and leave it in the designated potty area
- Praise and Name it... good potty/business when they stoop
- Keep praise low or no key for timid animals; it may startle
- Reward and praise some more

If you have tried and true methods or tips, please feel free to add, I'm always learning too.

Dog And Wolf-Dog Training: Emergency Recall For Runaways

It’s the moment we all dread, the split second you realize your beloved pet is beyond your reach.

Maybe a gate was left open, or he slipped past a friend at the front door. Whatever the reason, you’ve got to act fast.

The trainer’s number one rule, don’t chase your dog. It’s a good one. Getting them to chase you to a safe area is recommended.

Still, it doesn’t hurt to have a little insurance that could give you a slight advantage.

Like all training, preparing for such emergencies takes practice, and the more you reinforce the “return” behavior the better it will work.

There are a few variations and techniques to use but they all lead to one thing, as fast response.

Choose Your Words

You can use any word or very short phrase as long as you always use it with an upbeat tone and reward.

I personally don’t use the word “come” because I sometimes ask my dogs to “come” and all they get is praise. The same goes for using their name. 

I use three words for an emergency return... “treat”, which means they are getting something, so I have their attention, and “let’s go”, which means they will get a HIGH VALUE treat if they get over here now.

High value treats are, moist, yummy and special, they are not dry biscuits, and if your dog eats raw, the bloodier the better.

Guard Your Words

Keep your return words sacred. Never speak them unless you can produce a high value treat. This is especially important during practice. Whether you’re at home or out, it’s not a bad idea to keep something with you.

Sealed Slim Jims are really handy for the car, pocket, and purse. Other goodies can be kept by the front and back door. If your dog has a pen, keep something nearby, sealed and out of reach.

*Special consideration for wolfdogs. Understand that being single event learners, wolfdogs will quickly learn the return and just as easily learn to ignore it… if the goods are not delivered every single time.

Getting Their Attention

When you practice your return words make it fun. I always start on leash. Like training to “come” they should not have a choice at first. Say your attention getting word with excitement, when they look, immediately treat. Keep the sessions short (3-5 tries) but practice several times a day.

Make Fun Runs

Start in the areas where your dog could get loose then choose a threshold for delivering the goods.

I worry my dogs will get loose in the front yard because that’s where we get into the car and it’s where I walk them at night. So, I want them to know that following me or anyone into the yard is the best thing that can happen all day.

First leave the yard, house, or pen gate open. Then lead your leashed dog out of the “safe zone”, let him sniff, or whatever, then with excitement use your phrase, “treat, let’s go” and run him into the yard. Once past the gate or threshold, reward and praise.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Think of several scenarios and exits and practice those thresholds too. At first, practice every day, you’ll know when they have the idea because they will start pulling you to the yard. That’s when I start phasing out daily practice.

But don’t stop there; reinforce it at least once or twice a week. This way they will know the result but won’t expect it every time you go out.

Share Practice

Let others who spend time with your dog use the same return command and let them practice on occasion too.

Always Keep Your Cool

Never, reprimand your dog once you get him safe inside the safety zone.

For Timid or New Dogs

Sometimes when a dog, especially wolfdogs are timid, fearful or new to your home, praise and excitement may startle them. Be sensitive to their needs. A fun run to the yard may traumatize them and do the opposite of what you want to accomplish.

A good way to inspire them is to lead them out on leash and have a big treat or meal ready inside their pen or waiting for them on the floor at the door. This way there is no bending or movement that will startle them. Then leave them alone to enjoy it.

Thankfully, my foster wolfdog never got loose, but she was always anxious to get back to her pen because I would toss a chicken leg in there before we left, so it was there when we returned.

Other Places and Tools To Use

I travel a lot with my dogs. I taught them to come to a whistle (a bear whistle, not at full blast) by playing “hide, seek, treat” with them in the house. I also often treat them as soon as they hop in the car because …why would they want to leave a “happy fun place” to be confined to a car?

These are not foolproof methods, and while rare, I’ve had success using them.

If you have tried and true methods to get your dogs back, absolutely feel free to add them to this post.

Wolf-Dog Myths, Misconceptions and Facts

by Megan Lindsay

Some of the most popular misconceptions I hear are...

- They're vicious.
- They are unpredictable.
- They can turn on their owners at any time.
- They prey on children.
- They're wild animals that should be released to the wild.
- Wolfdogs are untrainable.
- Wolfdogs make great guard dogs.
- Wolfdogs interfere with the wild populations of wolves.
- Raw meat makes them aggressive and blood thirsty.
- Wolfdogs make great house pets.
- Mixing dogs with wolves results in an animal with the aggression of the wolf and the outgoing nature of the dog, leaving you with a confused animal with a battle going on in its head.

Wolves are not vicious at all, they are actually very shy by nature, and would rather run away and hide from a new situation or new things rather than confront them. Due to their shy nature they will hide from any intruders making them an awful guard dog, but a great watch dog in the sense that they will watch as people come in and take all your stuff. LOL

Dogs are domestic wolves, there is no battle going on in their head for which is in control. Wolf body language and dog body language is the same. Wolves are the animal from which we try to understand our dogs. Wolves tend to be much more exaggerated than dogs, they let you know when you have started to push their limits, and they will let you know when they are on their last nerve without biting or snapping. They dont "turn on you", they will give you plenty of clear warning. Dogs have been bred by humans to easily adapt to new situations and to not express their feelings as much when uncomfortable (aka growling or snarling). Dog body language is the toned down version of wolf body language with some aspects removed due to selective breeding. Hence why wolfdogs aren't "unpredictable".

Wolfdogs of today are the result of breeding captive animals together. These animals have been in captivity for generations stemming back to zoos and fur farms. There is no "my dog got loose and bred to a wild wolf" . Wolfdogs are not wild animals, they are captive bred animals and if released into the wild they will die. They don't know how to hunt and rely on people to feed them and care for them. If released, they will starve to death or be shot by approaching people due to their socialization to humans in captivity.

Training is all about reward. Unlike many dogs, they don't have much of a desire to please you, more of a "what's in it for me?" mindset. They absolutely can be trained to do basic commands, very easily actually. These are highly intelligent problem solving animals, if sitting gets them what they want (aka a treat) they will pick up on it immediately. It should be kept in mind these guys are "single event learners", meaning they only need to do something once to remember it forever. A bad experience can scar them for life, which is why caution is so important, otherwise they may be to scared to do what you want them to.

I don't often use the term "pet" to describe wolfdogs. The lower content wolfdogs can sometimes be trusted in the house unsupervised, as they act mainly like their dog counterpart, but anything with significant wolf content requires an outdoor enclosure due to their destructive tendencies. They make excellent companions, but require a huge commitment and many life sacrifices. Like any big dog, they should be supervised around children, not so much because they are out to eat them like little red riding hood, but because these are large animals whose idea of playing is jumping up and mouthing. If a 80 lb wolfdog jumps up on your 4 year old, it's not going to be a fun time. The same thing goes with ANY large breed canine.

Megan Lindsay socializes and trains wolfdogs as a volunteer at HWF. She is co-manager of In the Company of Wolves: Wolfer Magic Facebook and helps administer many wolfdog pages, including Wolfdog education for beginners.

Wolf-dog Socialization: Can Wolf-Dogs Walk On A Leash?

Yes, depending how comfortable the animal is with his handler and new situations. But... realize people will stop, stare and ask questions, so you'll want to make sure your wolfdog can handle being approached without going into a panic state, which is just sad.

Also be prepared to handle questions, especially about content.

Advertising your DOG as a wolfdog misinforms the public about what to expect from a wolfdog. 

I personally don't have a problem denying content at all if you choose. It's like when people ask my nationality because they can't figure it out. What does it matter? I'm a beautiful person, with a good heart, who doesn't like to draw attention to myself, respect it.

From The Wolfdog Project

Why does it matter?

Advertising your dog as a wolfdog misinforms the public about what to expect from a wolfdog. A shepherd cross or a malamute cross behaves much differently than an actual wolfdog, though they are often sold to unsuspecting purchasers as 90% Timberwolf or 98% Arctic Wolf.

When this bold claim is made, others go out in search of a dog like yours. What they may end up with is an actual high content animal, and being woefully unprepared for this, they doom the wolfdog to a short and unfulfilled life.

If you are in doubt about the content of your animal, DO NOT claim they are a wolfdog. Wolfdogs carry serious ramifications in areas of insurance, ownership legality and are excluded from many dog sport arenas.

If you have a dog, love your dog for what it is. Don't try to make it a wolf.

And leave wolfdog ownership to those with the containment and experience to give these animals fulfilled lives where they can be representatives of the 'breed.'

Photo used with permission. For photo credit information, please inquire.

For more information about wolfdogs, the following site is a good resource.

http://wolfdogproject.com/

Dog and Wolf-Dog Behavior: Why Are They So Aloof?

Naiche & Katori HWF Ambassadors

Some Northern Breeds and Wolfdogs are known to be aloof, aka...not friendly or forthcoming; cool, and distant. Some people go as far to say the trait makes them a "Cat Lover's Dog".

Wolf-dogs especially are known to walk away when your lovin' has reached full capacity and... just when you think you have their undivided attention they turn on you, butt first.

It's not personal. They're hardwired to seek the next best thing. What could possibly be more interesting than you:

- Food
- A human or wolfdog with food
- Anything another animal or human finds enjoyable- like a water bowl
- Water another dog's foot in it
- Hoses ejecting water
- Someone starting or stopping play
- The sound of a freezer door being opened
- The smell of freshly dropped bird poop

The list could go on and on.

So, if you want to get back your wolfdog's affection or attention... look to the list, starting with food.