Bad Breeders: Red Flag Warnings

I'd rather people adopt any breed dog or wolfdog, but being realistic I know people will buy puppies anyway, so I'd rather see bad breeders and con artists sink like stones in a quarry pond.

To be fair, legitimate breeders may do some of the things I mention here, but I’m setting up this list of warning signs that can tell you something may be fishy. So, always trust your gut.

What can possibly be wrong?

They run a puppy mill. The pups could be sick. The pups could be stolen. They won’t deliver/ship the pups after you pay. They may bait you with a picture and deliver a completely different animal. And most certainly, wolfdog breeders can and very often sell you a $3,000 wolfy looking mixed breed dog of northern heritage, aka a mutt.

So how can you be sure?

There’s no way to be sure if you buy anything online or sight unseen.

RED FLAGS

They Don’t Ask Questions

Someone who cares about the animals they breed will want to screen the people they sell to. If you’ve done your homework on a particular breed, you ‘ll know what kinds of questions they should be asking. If you’re not sure, you need to do more homework.

They Won’t Allow Pre-Purchase Visits

Sometimes breeders don’t want someone in their home for various reasons, but it should raise a flag if you are not allowed to meet a pup before you purchase. A good breeder will want to see how you interact with a pup before they allow you to take it, and will arrange a place to meet you. Personally, I would want to see the home and one of the parents first. Note: Anyone can copy and print pictures off of the internet, and misrepresent those animals as the parents.

They Make Excuses

A bad breeder is secretive because they know what they’re doing is morally or legally wrong. They will make all kinds of excuses to keep you away from the pups and or them before a purchase. “I don’t let people see the pups because they haven’t had shots.” “I can’t get around much, so you’ll just have to take my word.” But... they’ll personally pack the pup in a crate and send it off across the country on a plane. As if there are no germs on planes.

They Rush You

They’re in a rush to find a buyer, so if it’s not you, you’re wasting their time... and time is money. They will tell you there are five other people who want this pup sight unseen, and ask, "So, do you want it or not?”

They Make Guarantees

Bad breeders need to make a sale. They will promise the impossible. “All my pups will have great temperaments, make great house dogs, and are great with kids... I bred them like that.”

They Make More Excuses

If a bad breeder does meet you with a sickly puppy, she will make claims that the pup is underweight because he was stressed on the ride, or all puppies have eye drainage, or bald patches. These are professional crooks who will count on your sympathy to take that pup with you no matter what.

They Must Have Full Payment Immediately

Yes, some breeders ask for deposits to hold pups and some will not breed unless they have a deposit on an approximate litter. But if they are asking for full payment immediately by PayPal, sight unseen, without even asking your address, then you may get scammed.

Spotting Bad Breeders Outright

Good breeders care about the animals they brought into this world. They want to know you, your lifestyle, and that you’d make a good match.

Puppy mill breeders and scammers only care about making money off of your ignorance or sympathy for the pup. They don’t want to know anything about you, and they don’t want you to know anything about their bad practices.

Con artists and bad breeders come in all sizes and shapes, and they even use front people to gain your trust, like sweet little old ladies, or smart looking women with twenty years of experience breeding show dogs. If you don’t feel right, follow your instincts, don’t buy that puppy, you’re just encouraging them to do it again and again.

For more see Megan Lindsay’s article “Why you should not buy from a puppy mill” http://wolfermagic.blogspot.com/2013/08/responsible-ownership-why-you-should.html

This link is for a wolfdog specific article about bad wolfdog breeders: http://texx-wolf-tails.webs.com/wolfdogbreeders.htm

Personally, I feel there are plenty of adoptable pups and adult dogs out there to choose from. The pups may not still have that milk fed puppy smell and the adult dogs may need a review of manners, but it’s a misconception that dogs in rescue or shelters are broken. They are usually there because the owner was broken and never considered a dog to be a lifetime commitment.

And where do these broken people get dogs… puppy mills and bad breeders.

Think about adoption first.

Dog and Wolf-Dog Socialization: Introducing A leash

This is a companion article for the "Introducing The Leash" videos.

Bringing timid, feral and fearful dogs and wolf-dogs out on a leash can be a challenge, but it's an extremely important task in an animal's socialization process.

I've seen many animals suddenly come to life and show me a whole new side to their personality.

Dogs that were too scared to move about in their pen have pulled me over to smell something interesting. There have also been dogs who don't leave the safety of their pen willingly at first,but after a couple walks strut confidently with their tails high.

Walks are a game changer for these animals, so it's worth the effort to get them out and about as soon as possible.

So, you've spent weeks getting them to trust you, next...

Leash Introduction

Carry the leash in with you during your socialization visits. Let feral animals get used to seeing this new object, and show dogs who've had negative associations with the leash that its not a threat. Hold the leash in your petting hand or let them brush against it in passing, always keeping note of their reaction.

If they shy away, take that as a sign to back off just a little but don't stop. If they have no problem, keep going.

Leashing Introduction

Make a loop and get it over their head. At first don't tighten the loop; it may spook them. Another good advanced tip is to offer treats when they stick their heads through the loop. Again, don't tighten just yet.

Leashed Introduction

Once they are comfortable with the leash over and around their head. Distract with treats and close the loop a little but not tight. Use treats to lure-lead the animal around their pen, even if small in a shelter on a loose lead. When comfortable lure-leading, let them move about on their own as you follow.

Some animals may take to it right away and don't mind the feel of the leash tightening, others may need a little more time. If they don't mind, they are ready to go.

HOWEVER, ready or not... if they have made attempts to bite the leash, you will want to use a properly fitted choke chain collar and leash. Wolfdogs are especially good at biting through leashes in one bite and you don't want to risk them getting away from you.

I also do not recommend using a regular collar with a choke chain collar because the collar can interfere with the tightening of the choke and both can slip over their head in a struggle. Plus, since I use every safety precaution possible, I prefer to add a harness with a separate leash for back up since timid guys are a flight risk.

Still, a properly fitted choke chain collar should do fine, but it not for corrections, it's to prevent biting through the collar and leash.

How To Properly Fit A Choke Chain Collar?

Using a soft tape measure, measure the widest part of the skull around the ears. Add 2-3 inches to the measurement to allow the least amount of slack in the choke collar. Large dogs will need a chain thickness of 4 mms for strength.

Tips For Leash Weary Animals

If the dog is moving slowly with uncertainty, you will want to continue to let them lead and use your praise with treats until they are comfortable.

Use a confident dog to take the lead. Sometimes they will follow.

Read their cues and respect them. Most animals prefer you and all walkers take the lead, so they can keep an eye on you. Others prefer to step ahead, but will stop and panic if they turn and see you coming.
In case of the later, use the calming signal of avoidance, turn and look away until they've calmed down.

Socializing very shy animals takes time. We have earned the trust of the animals in these videos. The videos only shows the potential of shy animals, but each person who handles a shy and timid animal will have to develop a relationship of trust on their own.

When you decide to adopt a shy animal, your first goal is to build your relationship, then introduce the leash. Even though we've shown the animal's potential. The animal is starting over with you. Be patient.

A positive socialization process can take week, months, or even years. For more on socialization videos see my channel  at Sangay Glass YouTube

Dog And Wolf-Dog Training: Housebreaking Problems

This is a photo of Mayhem (photo credit: Alyssa Costa. I'm sure Mayhem never ever goes potty inside... lol.

So what can you do about regularly UNscheduled potty times?

First, if your dog was house-trained and is suddenly doing his business inside, he may have a health issue that needs further investigation.

Also, very timid animals who have experienced a move or change may not feel comfortable in their new home or doing business in front of a new person. It's not uncommon for them to poop when no one's looking inside for awhile. Be patient.

But most of all be consistent, even if it means getting your @$$ out of bed at the sound of pattering in the wee hours.

Crates are useful, but they are only a tool in the process. Animals need to know their potty needs will be met at regular intervals.

In the beginning, the intervals need to be short (every two hours) and your eyes and ears need to be sharp to prevent accidents. As time goes by, the intervals can be increased.

Prime Times For Early Potty Training Outings Other Than Scheduled Times

- After Naps
- After Eating or Drinking
- The Second Zommies End
- Three Minutes After Play Begins

Visual and Auditory Signs Of Impending Doom

- Sniffing
- Circling
- Wandering Away From The Action
- Whining
- Barking
- Slow Pattering Of Paws or Collar Jingle In the Next Room

Additional Tips

- Clean accidents with solution of Lysol and water
- Or spray spots with Lysol (it eliminates the odor)
- Designate a potty area and bring on leash, not just let out
- Enlist the help of a potty-trained dog to show him the way
- Bring poop outside and leave it in the designated potty area
- Praise and Name it... good potty/business when they stoop
- Keep praise low or no key for timid animals; it may startle
- Reward and praise some more

If you have tried and true methods or tips, please feel free to add, I'm always learning too.